Pacific razor clams and buttery leeks sub in for the more commonly used Manila clams and onions in this classic chowder with a twist. Fresh thyme, dry vermouth, and a restrained hand with cream keep the chowder light and fresh, with just enough richness for a luxurious texture. For more recipes featuring sensational seafood beyond razor clams, check out my book Good Fish: 100 Sustainable Seafood Recipes From the Pacific Coast.
© 2018 by Becky Selengut. All rights reserved. Excerpted from Good Fish: 100 Sustainable Seafood Recipes From the Pacific Coast by permission of Sasquatch Books.
Steaming fresh clams, removing them from their shells, then adding them back to the chowder at the end keeps the chopped clam meat tender. Simmered chowder is strained and blended at high speed until emulsified and smooth, eliminating the need for a roux.
One of the most recognizable clams, the quahog from the East Coast, has a notoriously tough, chewy flesh. A light pounding is sufficient to prepare the meat for frying in a po boy, but for use in chowder, the clam needs to be on the smaller side, as the large ones are too tough. Few small-sized clams need any tenderizing and can be eaten straight from the steamer, although a wine marinade with a dash of lemon juice makes the flesh more succulent. Both Manila clams and littlenecks can be steamed and served straight; whereas, horse clams benefit from manual tenderizing around the neck and rim, where the flesh is tougher.
While most store-bought clams are ready to tenderize, those that are dug from the shore need to be cleaned first, ideally by soaking in brine overnight. Whether they are soft or hard shell, clams must be alive before tenderizing or cooking. Discard any that remain closed after blanching or that do not close tightly when raw if tapped with a knife. Prize open clams on a hard, non-slip surface by working open the shell with a sturdy knife. Remove the guts and rinse off any sand; then spread out the meat, which will include a soft main portion and extending parts such as the foot and siphon. Lay the meat flat on a board, ready for tenderizing.
Hammering away at clam meat with a chefs mallet physically disintegrates the protein fibers in the same way as tenderizing a steak. To protect the clams integrity, lay the strips of meat between plastic wrap to avoid splattering the surface, and use the smooth side of the mallet. For long, straight razor clams, a delicacy from the West Coast, pay particular attention to the tougher meat of the siphon. The same applies for the geoduck clam, which has a substantial siphon. The geoduck must be blanched in boiling water for 10 seconds before you try to open the shell. Split the siphon along its length with a sharp knife and hammer it until it is less rubbery, ready for slicing and sauteing. The soft body meat of the geoduck, however, does not require tenderizing and can go straight into a chowder.
Both papaya and pineapple juices contain enzymes that are effective in tenderizing not only meat but also shellfish, although bromelain, the active ingredient in pineapple juice, can turn clam meat into mush if theyre left in it too long, so check it regularly. In both cases, soak the chopped clam portions in the juice and any seasonings, cover, and refrigerate. Buttermilk, too, has a tenderizing effect and prepares the clam for dredging in breadcrumbs, but its less acidic than citrus marinades, which can actually make clam meat more chewy. Soak the chopped clam meat in buttermilk for up to 30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the chunks, shake off any excess, and toss it in breadcrumbs.
Many clams have tough protein fibers that cooks need to break down to make the meat palatable for use, especially in a chowder. In general, the larger the clam, the tougher the flesh. Not all clams need pounding, however. Large hard shell quahogs require tenderizing; whereas, soft-shell steamers are usually good to go without any interference.
Special equipment
If you’re shucking fresh razor clams for this recipe, you can collect and strain any liquid from that process and substitute it for part of the bottled clam juice.
New England Clam Chowder with fresh clams
FAQ
How do you tenderize clams?
How do you cook clams so they are not chewy?
Do clams get more tender the longer you cook them?
How do you cook clams in chowder?
Using a large skillet with a lid, bring the water, chicken broth, and garlic to a boil. Add the clams into the skillet and place the lid on top. Cook for 5-10 minutes. Watch closely. Once all the clams have opened, remove from heat immediately. Do not overcook – your clams will be rubbery. Reserve some of the liquid for use in the chowder.
Can you use canned clams to make clam chowder?
Canned clams and bottled clam juice. Canned, chopped clams are a great shortcut for weeknight clam chowder. The whole can is used in this chowder, so nothing goes to waste. There isn’t enough clam juice in the cans though, so grab some bottled clam juice too.
How do you make clam chowder without a roux?
Steaming fresh clams, removing them from their shells, then adding them back to the chowder at the end keeps the chopped clam meat tender. Simmered chowder is strained and blended at high speed until emulsified and smooth, eliminating the need for a roux.