If you’re looking for a compact, versatile tree that provides interest nearly year-round, you can’t do much better than the crabapple. In addition to dazzling you with breathtaking buds and blossoms in spring, crabapples are also handsome foliage plants in summer and fall, and provide bountiful displays of fruit that linger on the branches well into winter. What’s more, they come in a range of sizes and forms (most no taller than 20 feet) to accommodate nearly any space constraint.
There are hundreds of crabapple varieties, but those featured here are particularly gardenworthy, bred for superior flowering, good fall leaf color, and attractive fruit. Even better, they resist apple scab and other common diseases that have beset crabapples in the past, making them reliable performers year after year.
Most grow 15 to 20 feet tall and wide. There are also dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties that range in height from under 5 feet to 10 feet.
Single, semi-double or fully double in white, pink, magenta, or red. Very fragrant. Many varieties have darker buds that lighten in color as the flowers reach full bloom.
Usually green, but some varieties have foliage with purple, red, or bronze tones. Fall leaf color may be orange, red, gold, or bronze, depending on the cultivar.
Ripens from late summer to mid-fall and often clings to the branches through winter. Usually the fruit is red, resembling small cherries, but some cultivars produce yellow, maroon, or orange fruit.
The best time to plant a crabapple tree is in the spring or fall, when the soil is moist and temperatures are cool. (See What to Plant in Your Fall Garden). However, if you avoid freezing temperatures and extreme heat, you can plant a crabapple almost any time of year.
Crabapples thrive in full sun but don’t like hot weather, preferring climates with temperate summers and cold winters. They adapt to most soil conditions, as long as they are planted in well-drained soil. To avoid foliar diseases, plant in a location that offers good air circulation.
Follow the general rules for planting trees: Dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as the rootball and center the tree within the hole with the top of the rootball slightly above ground level. To enrich the soil, mix in some peat moss or compost. Stake if needed, and water deeply after planting.
Hey there garden lovers! If you’ve ever wondered, “how big do crab apple trees get?” then you’re in the right spot. I’m here to spill all the deets on these gorgeous trees that can light up any yard with their vibrant blooms and funky little fruits. At our lil’ corner of the gardening world we’ve seen crab apples turn boring spaces into jaw-dropping landscapes. So, let’s dive in and figure out if one of these stunners is the right fit for your patch of green!
Right off the bat, lemme tell ya—crab apple trees usually grow to about 12 to 25 feet tall and spread out 10 to 25 feet wide, depending on the type you pick. Some stay tiny, perfect for a cozy garden, while others stretch out like they own the place. Stick with me, and I’ll break down everything from their sizes to how to care for ‘em, so you ain’t left guessing.
Why Size Matters with Crab Apple Trees
When you’re thinkin’ about planting a crab apple tree, size ain’t just a number—it’s a big deal for planning. You don’t wanna plant a giant in a tiny yard and end up with branches pokin’ into your neighbor’s window, right? Or stick a dwarf variety in a huge space where it looks lost. I’ve made that mistake once, and trust me, it’s a hassle to fix.
Here’s the quick scoop on their general size range
- Average Height: Most crab apple trees hit between 12 and 25 feet tall when fully grown.
- Average Spread: They often spread out 10 to 25 feet wide, creating a nice canopy.
- Exceptions: Some dwarf varieties stay under 10 feet, while a few big boys can push past 30 feet tall.
Knowing this helps you pick the perfect spot and avoid a crowded mess. Plus, it gives you a heads-up on how much shade or privacy you’ll get. Let’s get into the nitty-gritty of what affects their growth and the types you can choose from.
What Affects How Big Crab Apple Trees Get?
Crab apple trees don’t just grow willy-nilly, A bunch of stuff plays into how tall and wide they end up I’ve learned this the hard way after plantin’ a couple in my own backyard and watchin’ ‘em behave differently Here’s what you gotta keep an eye on
- Variety: This is the big one. Some crab apples are bred to stay small, like dwarfs, while others are naturally larger. We’ll chat about specific types in a sec.
- Soil Conditions: They like well-drained, moist soil. If your dirt’s too sandy or too clay-heavy, growth might get stunted or go outta whack.
- Sunlight: These trees crave full sun—at least 6 hours a day. Skimp on that, and they might not reach their full potential or bloom as pretty.
- Watering: Especially when they’re young, they need regular water. I forgot to water one for a few weeks, and lemme tell ya, it didn’t grow much that year.
- Climate: They do best in spots with cold winters and mild summers. Hot, humid areas can stress ‘em out, affectin’ size.
- Pruning: If you don’t trim ‘em right, they can get leggy or too bushy. A good haircut keeps their shape and size in check.
Keep these in mind, and you’ll have a better shot at gettin’ your tree to the size you want. Now, let’s look at some popular varieties and their growth habits.
Popular Crab Apple Tree Varieties and Their Sizes
Not all crab apple trees are created equal, ya know. There’s a ton of varieties out there, each with its own vibe and size range. I’ve got a soft spot for a few of ‘em after seein’ how they transform a garden. Here’s a rundown of some standouts, based on what I’ve come across over the years, with their typical heights and spreads:
| Variety | Height (Feet) | Spread (Feet) | Shape | Cool Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Adams | 20 | 20 | Dense, rounded | Pink blooms, persistent red fruit |
| Adirondack | 18 | 10 | Upright, inverted cone | Heavy white flower display, bright red fruit |
| Candymint | 10 | 15 | Low, spreading | Dwarf size, rose pink flowers |
| Dolgo | 30 | 25 | Upright, spreading | One of the tallest, edible red fruit |
| Donald Wyman | 20 | 24 | Rounded | Glossy leaves, persistent red fruit |
| Lollipop | 10 | 10 | Round, compact | Tiny and perfect for small spaces |
| Prairifire | 20 | 20 | Upright, spreading | Bright red flowers, dark red fruit |
| Royalty | 15 | 15 | Upright, rounded | Purple leaves, dark red fruit |
| Sargent Tina | 5 | 6 | Small, rounded dwarf | Teeny tiny, great for patios |
| Spring Snow | 25 | 22 | Dense, oval | White flowers, fruitless (no mess!) |
See how much they vary? If you’ve got a small yard like I do in one of my properties, somethin’ like Sargent Tina or Lollipop is a no-brainer. But if you’ve got space to spare, a Dolgo or Spring Snow can make a bold statement. Pick based on your space and what kinda look you’re goin’ for.
Dwarf vs. Standard Crab Apple Trees: What’s the Diff?
I gotta break this down ‘cause it’s a game-changer when decidin’ on a crab apple tree. There’s basically two camps here—dwarf and standard—and knowin’ the difference saved me a lotta headache when I was plannin’ my garden.
-
Dwarf Crab Apple Trees:
- Usually stay under 10-12 feet tall and wide.
- Perfect for small yards, patios, or even near your house (just not too close, more on that later).
- Examples: Sargent Tina (5-6 feet), Lollipop (10 feet), Candymint (10 feet tall).
- They’re easier to manage, need less prunin’, and still give ya pretty flowers and fruit.
-
Standard Crab Apple Trees:
- These bad boys grow 15-30 feet tall and can spread just as wide.
- Best for bigger spaces where they can stretch out without crowdin’ other plants.
- Examples: Dolgo (30 feet), Robinson (25 feet), Spring Snow (25 feet).
- They make awesome shade trees or focal points but need more room and care.
I went with a dwarf variety near my patio ‘cause I didn’t wanna deal with fruit droppin’ everywhere or branches hittin’ my roof. But my buddy with a big ol’ field planted a standard one, and it looks majestic out there. Think about your space before you commit!
How to Pick the Right Size Crab Apple Tree for Your Yard
Choosin’ the right crab apple tree size ain’t just about what looks cool—it’s about makin’ sure it fits your life and your land. I’ve seen folks plant trees too big for their spot, and it turns into a hot mess real quick. Here’s how we at our garden crew decide:
- Measure Your Space: Grab a tape measure and figure out how much room you’ve got. If your yard’s tight, stick to dwarfs under 12 feet. Got a big lawn? Go for 20-25 feet varieties.
- Think About Purpose: Want shade or privacy? Pick a taller, wider type. Just want a cute accent? A small, rounded dwarf works fine.
- Check Proximity: Don’t plant too close to your house or power lines. I’d say keep it at least 8-10 feet away from buildings to avoid roots or branches causin’ trouble.
- Consider Mess: Some crab apples drop fruit like crazy, which can stain patios. If that bugs ya, go for a fruitless type like Spring Snow, especially near walkways.
When I picked mine, I sketched out my yard on some scrap paper—kinda old school, but it helped me see where a 10-foot dwarf would fit without crampin’ my style. Try it out!
Caring for Your Crab Apple Tree to Control Size
Once you’ve got your crab apple tree in the ground, how you treat it can make a big diff in how big it gets. I’ve messed up a few times, but I’ve learned some tricks to keep ‘em from goin’ wild or stayin’ too puny.
- Watering: Young trees need deep, regular water—about an inch a week. I use a soaker hose to get right to the roots. Once they’re settled in, ease up unless it’s super dry out.
- Pruning: Trim in late winter or early spring before they bloom. Cut out dead stuff, suckers at the base, and any crossed branches. I over-pruned once and stunted the growth, so don’t go overboard!
- Mulching: Put down 2-4 inches of organic mulch like wood chips around the base (not touchin’ the trunk) to keep moisture in and weeds out. Helps the tree focus energy on growin’ right.
- Fertilizing: If your soil’s decent, you might not need much. But if blooms or fruit look weak, toss on some slow-release fertilizer in spring. I did this last year, and my tree perked up big time.
- Sunlight: Make sure it gets full sun. I had one in partial shade, and it barely grew—lesson learned.
Keepin’ up with this stuff can help manage their size and keep ‘em healthy. A well-cared-for tree won’t just shoot up uncontrollably or stay too small—it’ll hit that sweet spot.
Where Should You Plant a Crab Apple Tree?
Location, location, location! Where you plant your crab apple tree can mess with its growth big time. I’ve had to move a tree once ‘cause I didn’t think it through, and it was a pain in the neck. Here’s what we consider:
- Sunlight: Full sun is non-negotiable. Pick a spot with at least 6 hours of direct light. My shaded tree grew slow and looked sad till I moved it.
- Soil: They like moist, well-drained dirt. If your soil holds water like a sponge, mix in some compost to loosen it up.
- Space: Give ‘em room to grow based on their mature size. A 20-foot tree needs a good 20-25 feet of open space around it to avoid crowdin’.
- Distance from Stuff: Keep 8-10 feet away from your house or fences. Roots can get nosy, and branches might scratch up your siding.
I planted one near my driveway thinkin’ it’d look nice, but the fruit kept droppin’ and makin’ a mess. Now I’d stick to fruitless types for spots like that. Learn from my oops!
Fun Facts About Crab Apple Trees (Size and Beyond!)
Crab apple trees ain’t just about height and width—they’ve got some quirky traits that make ‘em special. Here’s a few tidbits I’ve picked up that might surprise ya:
- They can live 50 years or more if you treat ‘em right. I’ve got one that’s been around longer than some of my neighbors!
- Their fruit, while often too tart to eat raw, makes killer jams and jellies. I tried makin’ some last fall, and it was a hit at the family BBQ.
- Some types bloom heavy one year and light the next. Don’t panic if yours skips a season—it’s normal for older trees.
- They’re tougher than regular apple trees when it comes to pests and diseases, which is why I love ‘em for low-maintenance vibes.
These lil’ facts make crab apples even more charmin’, don’t ya think? They’re not just pretty faces in the garden.
Common Mistakes When Guessin’ Crab Apple Tree Size
I’ve seen plenty of folks (and yeah, I’ve been one of ‘em) make some rookie moves when it comes to crab apple trees. Here’s what to watch out for so you don’t gotta learn the hard way:
- Underestimatin’ Growth: Thinkin’ a tree will stay small forever. Nope, even some dwarfs spread wider than ya expect. Check mature sizes before buyin’.
- Plantin’ Too Close: Stickin’ it near a house or other plants without room to grow. I did this and had to deal with tangled branches.
- Ignorin’ Variety: Not all crab apples grow the same. Pickin’ a random one without research can land ya with a giant in a tiny yard.
- Skippin’ Care: Forgettin’ to water or prune can stunt growth or make it go haywire. I neglected one, and it barely hit half its potential height.
Avoid these slip-ups, and you’ll be golden. Trust me, a lil’ plannin’ goes a long way.
Wrappin’ It Up: Find Your Perfect Crab Apple Tree
So, how big do crab apple trees get? Most hit that sweet spot of 12-25 feet tall and wide, but you’ve got dwarfs under 10 feet and giants pushin’ 30 feet. It all depends on the variety, how ya care for it, and where ya plant it. I’ve shared my own trials and errors to help ya pick the right one for your space, whether you’ve got a tiny patio or a sprawlin’ field.
We love these trees for their stunning spring blooms, colorful fall fruit, and the way they jazz up any yard. Take a sec to measure your space, think about sunlight and soil, and choose a type that matches your vibe. Got a fave variety or a question about plantin’ one? Drop a comment—I’m all ears for sharin’ more garden tales! Let’s get growin’!
CRABAPPLE TREE CARE & PRUNING
The first year after planting, provide supplemental watering during dry weather so the tree receives at least 1 inch of water per week and up to 2 inches during hot spells. After the roots become established, you will only need to water during prolonged dry periods. To reduce watering frequency, apply a few inches of mulch around the base of the tree (but not touching the trunk) to help retain soil moisture.
If planted in good, moderately fertile soil, crabapples usually don’t need extra fertilization. However, if you notice poor blooming and fruit production, you can improve soil fertility by top dressing with compost in the spring or by applying a slow-release fertilizer before new growth emerges.
Occasional pruning will help keep crabapple trees healthy and maintain their lovely silhouettes. Crabapples are particularly prone to water sprouts (shoots that grow upward from tree branches) and suckers that form at the base of the tree, which can grow large enough to become additional trunks. These growths should be removed, along with any dead, diseased, or crowded branches.
Pruning is best done in late winter or before flowering in early spring. Avoid over-pruning. Trees need time to form callus over a wound, so it’s best to remove only the branches that need it. Get more pruning advice: Pruning a Crabapple Tree.
Apple scab, cedar apple rust, fire blight, and powdery mildew are the most common diseases to afflict crabapples, particularly non-resistant varieties. Apple scab – a fungal disease that often develops in cool, wet springs – is the most serious problem and can cause leaf spotting and defoliation. These can be avoided by planting newer cultivars bred to resist these diseases and by replacing disease-prone trees with resistant varieties. Any branches that become defoliated due to disease usually leaf back out the following spring.
Popular TreesSelect the right ornamental or fruit-bearing tree for your garden
Show Time™ crabapple. Photo: Proven Winners.
If you’re looking for a compact, versatile tree that provides interest nearly year-round, you can’t do much better than the crabapple. In addition to dazzling you with breathtaking buds and blossoms in spring, crabapples are also handsome foliage plants in summer and fall, and provide bountiful displays of fruit that linger on the branches well into winter. What’s more, they come in a range of sizes and forms (most no taller than 20 feet) to accommodate nearly any space constraint.
There are hundreds of crabapple varieties, but those featured here are particularly gardenworthy, bred for superior flowering, good fall leaf color, and attractive fruit. Even better, they resist apple scab and other common diseases that have beset crabapples in the past, making them reliable performers year after year.
2025 National Tree of the Year: Show Time™ crabapple from Proven Winners.
Most grow 15 to 20 feet tall and wide. There are also dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties that range in height from under 5 feet to 10 feet.
May be rounded, spreading, columnar, vase-shaped, or weeping, depending on the cultivar.
Full sun, minimum 6 hours per day.
Mid to late spring, with the length of bloom ranging from 1 to 2 weeks.
Single, semi-double or fully double in white, pink, magenta, or red. Very fragrant. Many varieties have darker buds that lighten in color as the flowers reach full bloom.
Usually green, but some varieties have foliage with purple, red, or bronze tones. Fall leaf color may be orange, red, gold, or bronze, depending on the cultivar.
Ripens from late summer to mid-fall and often clings to the branches through winter. Usually the fruit is red, resembling small cherries, but some cultivars produce yellow, maroon, or orange fruit.
Crabapple tree fruit. Photo by: Proven Winners.
The best time to plant a crabapple tree is in the spring or fall, when the soil is moist and temperatures are cool. (See What to Plant in Your Fall Garden). However, if you avoid freezing temperatures and extreme heat, you can plant a crabapple almost any time of year.
Crabapples thrive in full sun but don’t like hot weather, preferring climates with temperate summers and cold winters. They adapt to most soil conditions, as long as they are planted in well-drained soil. To avoid foliar diseases, plant in a location that offers good air circulation.
Follow the general rules for planting trees: Dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as the rootball and center the tree within the hole with the top of the rootball slightly above ground level. To enrich the soil, mix in some peat moss or compost. Stake if needed, and water deeply after planting.
Top 5 Most Popular Crabapple Trees | NatureHills.com
FAQ
How long does it take for a crabapple tree to grow to full size?
What are the drawbacks to crabapple trees?
Common problems with crabapple trees include the fungal diseases apple scab, powdery mildew, and cedar apple rust; bacterial diseases like fire blight; and canker diseases such as Botryosphaeria canker. Pests like aphids and spider mites can also cause issues, while environmental factors like drought stress can weaken trees and make them more susceptible to diseases. To address these problems, practice sanitation, use resistant cultivars, provide proper watering and care, and prune infected branches.
Are crabapple trees high maintenance?
After they become established, crabapples require minimal care. Most of the maintenance involves elimination of branches that cross over or rub against others, as well as the removal of water sprouts, suckers, and branches that grow too vigorously (four to eight feet per season).
Where is the best place to plant a crabapple tree?
Plant crabapple trees in a location with at least six hours of direct sunlight daily and well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Avoid waterlogged or poorly draining areas, as these trees cannot tolerate heavy, wet soils. Ensure adequate space for the tree’s mature size and air circulation to prevent disease.