why are my scallion pancakes tough

Scallion pancakes were one of the first things I ever taught myself how to cook. Or, I should say, I thought I taught myself how to cook them. I mean, fried dough and scallions, right? How hard could it be?

Of course, at the time I knew nothing of gluten development or laminate pastries and the dense, doughy blobs I was coming up with were certainly nowhere near the flaky, crisp, light, multilayered affairs that the best Chinese restaurants serve. But due to an acute case of a horrible syndrome known in medical circles as Imadethismyselfsoitmusttasteawesomosis, I was totally oblivious to my obvious failure.

Heres what I did in six easy steps: 1. Combine flour and water until workable dough is formed. 2. Knead a lot (I heard that kneading is good). 3. Add scallions. 4. Knead some more. 5. Roll out with a rolling pin, and fry. 6. Serve with tons of salt, vinegar, and soy sauce to distract from leaden texture.

It took me several years to realize that conceptually, the method used to make scallion pancakes is almost identical to that of making puff pastry, croissants, or any laminated pastries.

Fast forward five or six years to me sitting in the living room watching an episode of Yan Can Cook and my mind being blown. This episode? Scallion pancakes, the way theyre supposed to be made.

The process is quite simple, and ingenious. It combines two unique features: hot water dough and lamination.

It’s not okay: To use hot water because it’ll make the dough tougher. To not rest the dough in Step 1 because it’ll make the dough harder to roll. To skip the slamming in Step 5 because the pancake will be dense rather than fluffy.

Frying Temperature for Scallion Pancakes

The only thing left to mention is frying temperature. I tried frying scallion pancakes over multiple temperature ranges to figure out the ideal method to achieve a crisp crust and optimal layer expansion. I also tried using very little oil (1 tablespoon), and a whole lot of oil (up to 1/2 a cup—enough that the oil came over the top of the pancake). In the end, I discovered that very high heat produces unevenly cooked pancakes. They blister and bubble rapidly, the thin bubbles cooking and burning long before other areas of the pancake even begin to take color or the interior begins to set.

On the other hand, keep the heat too low, and the pancake sits there slowly soaking up oil until its totally saturated, turning heavy and greasy instead of light and crisp.

Moderate heat with a good amount of oil and constant swirling is the best way to get even browning and discrete, flaky layers.

If you love the idea of these scallion pancakes, heres a full collection of Chinese-American appetizer recipes.

What Is Laminated Pastry?

What exactly is a laminated pastry? Unlike bread leavened biologically with yeast or quick breads leavened chemically with baking soda or baking powder, a laminated dough is leavened via fat and vapor. It consists of two basic elements: layers of lean dough separated by layers of fat.

The lean dough can be completely unleavened (like puff pastry, scallion pancakes, or phyllo), or leavened with yeast (like croissants and Danish), or leavened with baking powder (some types of biscuits). Each method gives a slightly different end result. Likewise, the fat layers can be any number of fats, such as olive oil (for some phyllo recipes), butter (for puff pastry), or in the case of scallion pancakes, sesame seed oil.

The idea is that by building up layer upon layer of paper-thin sheets of pastry and separating them with equally thin layers of fat, water vapor from the pastry expands as it heats, causing the layers to separate slightly. Its this separating that creates the flaky, tender structure of perfect laminate pastry.

With some laminate pastries such as baklava or spanakopita, these layers are created manually. Phyllo is built up one layer at a time, the cook manually brushing butter or oil onto each sheet before laying on the next. Its a relatively easy, but time-consuming process. Puff pastry, on the other hand, uses the power of mathematics to very quickly build up hundreds, or even thousands of layers. Heres how it works:

A thin, even slab of butter is placed on top of a layer of dough, which is then folded over the butter like an envelope to completely enclose it. Next, the entire thing gets folded into thirds and then rolled out again to the same size and shape—where you once had one layer, now youve got three. Repeat this process again, and youre up to nine layers. Most puff pastry recipes recommend a minimum of four folding iterations, giving you a total of 81 layers.

“you can fold up to eight times, which gets you a whopping 6,561 layers”

As the graph shows, the number of layers goes up exponentially as you repeat the process, though for practical purposes, eventually the flour layers break or get penetrated by the butter, which limits the number of iterations. With extremely careful handling and a cold marble surface, you can fold up to eight times, which gets you a whopping 6,561 layers. Imagine that!

Scallion pancakes are made by an entirely different method. Rather than folding over and over, the flat disks of dough are first brushed with sesame oil and sprinkled with scallions, then rolled up, jelly-roll style.

I counted the number of complete turns this process makes, and it ends up being around five or so, depending on how tightly you roll it (the photo of a torn scallion pancake shows these five layers). After rolling, the log gets spiraled up like a snake.

Finally, it gets flattened out one last time, this time with the scallions tucked neatly inside. A quick fry in hot oil later, and youre done. Crispy, slightly chewy, flaky, filled with scallions, and delicious.

Of course, my immediate thought was: how could I make this crispier and flakier? The obvious answer is: treat it like a puff pastry by repeating the process several times.

By repeating the process even once, you multiply the layers by a factor of five, bringing you up to a full 25 layers of scallion-packed, pastry delight. The only problem is, its very difficult to roll, twist, and flatten the dough once its had the scallions spread inside it—even going through the process once is difficult. As you can see from the photo below, the scallions have a tendency to break out, destroying the thin, delicate layers of dough.

Luckily, the solution is pretty simple: just form the layers without the scallions, then add the scallions right before the last iteration of rolling and twisting. I tried taking the process to the extreme, repeating the rolling steps four times (to deliver a full 625 layers!), but it proved too much for the delicate hot-water dough to handle. Instead of maintaining discrete layers, it ended up turning into a solid, doughy mass. Two iterations is about as much as it can handle.

Ultimate Guide to Scallion Pancakes— 6 methods! (蔥油餅)

FAQ

Why do my pancakes come out rubbery?

Why are my pancakes chewy?

Why are my scallion pancakes dry?

Why are my pancakes so dense?

Are scallion pancakes greasy?

In my childhood in Taiwan in the late 80s, scallion pancakes were as ubiquitous as a slice on New York City street corners. It was a snack my uncle might buy me when he came to pick me from school and I’d devour them on the ride home. It’s usually flaky and crunchy and doughy all at the same time but never greasy.

Are fried potato pancakes bad for you and why?

Frying is not a healthy cooking option, since it provides other types of fats that help increase cholesterol, which is detrimental to heart health.

How do you know if a scallion pancake is good?

The sign of a good scallion pancake are the flaky layers of dough. When I say flaky, I don’t mean buttery pie crust kind of flaky. Rather, when you rip open a scallion pancake, you should see thin, overlapping layers of dough. It gives the pancakes a light airy quality in the center.

What makes a good scallion pancake?

Scallion pancakes (蔥油餅) is one of those traditional Chinese dishes that will please a crowd. In general, they are pan fried so that they get nice and crispy on the outside. The sign of a good scallion pancake are the flaky layers of dough. When I say flaky, I don’t mean buttery pie crust kind of flaky.