Tiramisu is one of the most well-known and popular Italian desserts eaten with a spoon in the world: “tiramisu” is the fifth most recognised Italian word amongst Europeans, and appears in the vocabulary of as many as 23 different languages! Perhaps due to its simplicity or high nutritional values, it’s almost impossible, especially in Italy, to find someone who has never tasted a spoonful. But this dessert is also famous for and characterised by a longstanding debate, as different Italian regions vie to be crowned its birthplace. So let’s try to trace the origin of tiramisu through its history.
It comes from the Treviso dialect, “Tireme su”, Italianised into Tiramisù in the latter half of the 20th century. Historical records state that Tiramisù originated in Treviso in 1800. It is said that this dessert was invented by a clever “maitresse” of a house of pleasure in the centre of Treviso.
The history of tiramisu
There are many legends around the history of tiramisu. The first has Tuscany in the lead role, and says that tiramisu was invented in Siena during a visit by the Grand Duke Cosimo III de Medici: at that time the dessert was called “zuppa del duca” (the Duke’s soup). Next we’re off to Piedmont, or more precisely Turin, where it is said that this dessert was invented for Camillo Benso, the count of Cavour, and then arrived in Emilia-Romagna via Forlì writer Pellegrino Artusi, who describes a similar recipe in his book “Kitchen science and the art of eating well”, published in 1891, although the mascarpone is replaced by butter.
However, these attempted claims were not considered credible or truthful, and the real dispute arose between the regions of Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia, in the areas of Treviso and Udine respectively. Treviso places the source of tiramisu, initially called “Tiremesù”, at the end of the 1960s at the restaurant “Le Beccherie”, from an idea by pastry chef Loly Linguanotto to rework a typical Venetian dessert, the Sbatudin, a mixture of egg yolks whipped with sugar.
Friuli Venezia Giulia, on the other hand, posits that the “Tirimisù” appeared at hotel-restaurant Roma in Tolmezzo (Udine) during the 1950s, and it is this latter story that has the upper hand. The Ministry of Agriculture and Food Resources has actually assigned the paternity of tiramisu to Friuli, adding the dessert to the Friulian list of PAT – Traditional Agrifood Products. But Veneto hasn’t thrown in the towel yet!
How to Make Tiramisu | Gennaro Contaldo | Italian Special
FAQ
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What is Tiramisù?
A food historian looks into the origins and the various interpretations of tiramisù, the most famous Italian dessert. Tiramisù is a velvety mélange of savoiardi cookies dipped in an espresso, layered with delicately sweetened whipped eggs and mascarpone cheese, and topped with a dusting of cocoa powder.
Where did Tiramisù come from?
The origin of modern Tiramisù is highly disputed, with a long and rather controversial backstory. Authorship is asserted by both the Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Veneto regions of Italy.
Where does the name ‘Tirami Su’ come from?
The recipe has been adapted into many varieties of cakes and other desserts. Its origin is disputed between the Italian regions of Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The name comes from the Italian tirami su ( lit. ‘pick me up’ or ‘cheer me up’).
What is tiramisu made of?
Tiramisu is an Italian dessert made of ladyfingers ( savoiardi) dipped in coffee, layered with a whipped mixture of eggs, sugar and mascarpone and flavoured with cocoa. The recipe has been adapted into many varieties of cakes and other desserts. Its origin is disputed between the Italian regions of Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.