Like the God of the Old Testament, salt cod goes by many names. The French call it morue, the Italians baccala and the Portuguese bacalhau. Of course, the fish is the same — Atlantic cod — and the process is the same — drying and salting.
Salt cod is eaten in nearly every country that comes into contact with the Atlantic Ocean. For centuries, this meaty, plentiful fish, whose low fat content makes it uniquely amenable to long-term preservation, provided mankind with a protein bonanza. Long before airplanes, motor-powered ships or refrigeration, cod could be caught in the north Atlantic and eaten months later in Europe, Africa or Latin America.
Buying. The quality of salt cod varies considerably. Often, what is labeled “salt cod,” “baccala” or “bacalao” is actually hake or another cod impersonator. You can make decent fish cakes using pretty much any of these, but for other recipes try to use the best quality salt cod you can find. This means nearly white whole fillets, about 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts; these tend to come in wooden boxes packed in coarse salt.
Desalting. All of these recipes begin with desalting the salt cod. (You can skip this step if your fish seller — as some do in Italian and Latino markets — desalts the salt cod for you and sells it frozen.) This is done by soaking the fish in a pot of cold water for 2 days or so — changing the water 2 or 3 times a day. The pot should be kept in the refrigerator. Obviously, the thicker the salt cod, the longer the process will take.
Salt. Because the desalting process can be a bit unpredictable, do not add salt to these dishes until they are done and you have tasted them.
Salt cod is also very delicious — even more delicious, in the opinion of many, than fresh cod. Still, I have food-savvy friends who dont get it. “Why eat salt cod,” they ask, “when thanks to refrigeration we can always find fresh cod?” “Why eat prosciutto,” I answer, “when you could have fresh ham?”
This is not a gratuitous comparison. As Harold McGee writes in his encyclopedic work of food science, On Food and Cooking:
This flavor alchemy explains why salt cod continues to be a cherished comfort food, even as dwindling catches have transformed it from a cheap staple into a pricey delicacy. Expensive comfort food may be a paradox, but thanks to overfishing or ecological change or whatever else is on the list of possible causes for the recent collapse of the Atlantic cod fishery, it is a fact of life.
Tom Gilbert writes about food, baseball, politics and the history of New York City. A longtime resident of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, where he is a notorious home cook, Tom knows the good food places in three NYC boroughs and several Italian regions; he can eat in eight languages and talk about eating in five.
Another salt cod paradox is that devotion to this homey and once humble food inevitably leads to faraway places and exotic cuisines.
Growing up in New England, we ate salt cod exclusively in the form of fish cakes. My mother made them for dinner, although traditionally they served as part of a working-class breakfast. I still make them, although sometimes, out of thrift, I substitute leftover cooked fish (bluefish and mackerel are good) or smoked fish for some or all of the salt cod.
During a college semester in Los Angeles I was introduced to chiles rellenos and enchiladas, but also found a life-changing Mexican salt cod casserole that Aztec-ed up the Iberian classic Bacalao a la Vizcaina with tomatillos and dried chilies. My mother-in-law taught me a spicy and vinegary salt cod dish from her Virgin Islands childhood called pickled salt fish (pronounced more like “sow fish”).
Most Americans associate salt cod with Italians, but to true devotees, southern Europe from Lisbon to Istanbul is a magical mystery tour, in which each nation, region and city cooks the dish in its own way. The Portuguese are in a class by themselves as salt cod lovers. Great fishermen, they not only introduced salt cod to most of Europe, but also proudly claim to have more than a thousand distinct recipes for bacalhau — and not a single recipe for fresh cod.
Salted cod is healthy with lots of omega-3 fatty acids, it’s high in protein and low in fat, and it’s relatively inexpensive. The best thing is that it’s super simple to make and so versatile. You can add it to all sorts of dishes – from salads to stews and fritters.
New England Salt Cod Cakes
These are wonderful when made entirely with salt cod, but out of thrift, or sometimes just for the sake of variety, you can substitute almost any white-fleshed leftover cooked fish, or even smoked fish, for some or all of the salt cod.
1 pound desalted salt cod
1 or 2 bay leaves
4 medium-size starchy potatoes, boiled and mashed or riced
1 medium Spanish onion, grated
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley
1 generous pinch ground black pepper
1 small pinch grated nutmeg
1/2 cup unseasoned breadcrumbs, or more as needed to bind the mixture
For dredging, 2 cups breadcrumbs, panko or flour
2 to 3 tablespoons of bacon fat or butter, or more as needed for frying
1 lemon, cut into wedges, or 1/2 cup tartar or hot sauce
Poach the desalted cod and bay leaf for 2 to 3 minutes in simmering water. Drain and flake cod; discard the bay leaf.
In a large bowl, mix potatoes, onion, eggs, parsley, black pepper, nutmeg and breadcrumbs.
Add flaked cod to bowl; mix all ingredients roughly by hand. The consistency should be moist but not so moist that you cannot form cakes about the size of a small hamburger that barely hold together.
Form cakes and place them on a wax paper-lined cookie sheet. Cover with wax paper, then cover with tin foil and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours in advance. You can cook them right away, but letting them rest in the refrigerator will help them hold together during frying.
Take cakes out of refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking. Heat bacon fat or butter in a pan or cast iron skillet over medium heat until it sizzles when you add a small piece of bread.
Dredge the fish cakes lightly in flour, unseasoned breadcrumbs or panko and fry for about 5 minutes on each side, or until they are heated through and the outsides are crispy and light to medium brown. Salt to taste and serve with lemon wedges, tartar sauce or hot sauce.
Baccala’ Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce)
This is real Italian soul food — hearty and unrefined — and there are varieties on this recipe to be found all over Italy. Often, the potatoes are omitted and the dish is served over pasta.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
4 medium starchy potatoes
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup black olives, pitted and roughly chopped
1 large Spanish onion, thinly sliced
1 1/2 pounds thick, desalted salt cod cut into large pieces
4 cups canned San Marzano tomatoes, with juice
1 tablespoon dried or 2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves
1/2 cup white wine
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons salted capers, soaked, drained and roughly chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped parsley
Freshly ground black pepper
Peel the potatoes and boil them in salted water until slightly undercooked. Drain and slice into 1/4-inch thick slices.
Over low heat, sauté the olives and onion in a tablespoon or 2 of olive oil until the onions soften (about 5 minutes). Remove and set aside.
Raise heat to medium. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Dredge cod lightly in flour and fry on both sides until brown. Remove cod and set aside.
Add to the skillet the tomatoes, oregano, wine, lemon juice, capers and half of the parsley. Cook until sauce begins to thicken (10 to 15 minutes).
Add the cod and potato slices back to the skillet, turning them in the sauce. Cover with the onion and olive mixture. Add a few generous grinds of black pepper. Turn heat to very low and simmer slowly for 45 to 60 minutes, adding water in small amounts if the dish begins to dry out.
Sprinkle with the remaining parsley before serving; drizzle with more olive oil or add another squeeze of lemon juice if you like. Taste and correct for salt.
Learn how to cook salted codfish
FAQ
Is salted cod fish healthy?
Is it okay to eat salted fish?
Is battered cod good for you?
What kind of cod is healthiest?
Is salted cod healthy?
Salted cod is healthy with lots of omega-3 fatty acids, it’s high in protein and low in fat, and it’s relatively inexpensive. The best thing is that it’s super simple to make and so versatile. You can add it to all sorts of dishes – from salads to stews and fritters. Although salted cod is not fresh, it has many benefits, namely the taste.
Cod liver oil vs Fish oil: Which is healthier?
Cod liver oil and fish oil are typically consumed from purified encapsulated supplements, although some individuals take cod liver oil by the spoonful. Both cod liver oil and fish oil contain fatty acids including the essential polyunsaturated fatty acids(PUFAs); eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) that are necessary for health and recommended by many healthcare practitioners. One key difference between the two oils is that cod liver oil is derived from the liver of codfish and is naturally accompanied by other nutrients, namely vitamin A and vitamin D. Fish oil supplements are derived from pressed fish body oil and typically contain concentrated amounts of EPA and DHA along with other fatty acids. Fish oils do not contain vitamins A or D unless a supplement manufacturer intentionally adds them. Both oils are healthy choices depending on what they are being used for; however, high amounts of vitamin D or vitamin A in cod liver oil may pose a problem for some individuals. Particularly in individuals taking supplements that already contain these nutrients.
Is Cod a healthy fish?
Cod is both a nutritious and flavorful fish loaded with lean protein, vitamins, and minerals. Although lower in omega-3s than fatty fish, cod can still be part of a healthy diet. Cod contains less mercury than some seafood, including popular fish like tuna, and can be prepared in multiple ways.
Is codfish good for Your Heart?
Codfish contains heart-healthy monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats (which contains omega-3s) that may help moderate heart rhythm, lower your blood pressure, balance your cholesterol and decrease the risk of heart disease, says Medline Plus. The recommended daily intake for omega-3 fatty acids differs according to age and gender.