While many Latin American countries claim the three milk–soaked sponge as their own, one writer traces its history to seek out the truth.
Growing up Nicaraguan in Miami, tres leches cake made an appearance in our home very often, regardless of whether or not there was a reason to celebrate. A rich and soupy sponge cake soaked in three milks (evaporated, condensed, and whole), tres leches is often topped with whipped meringue or marshmallow fluff and a maraschino cherry, then served in individual squares. The sponge cake does not fully absorb the milk syrup, which makes it taste extra heavenly.
In Miami, where Latin American communities abound, tres leches can be found in both Nicaraguan and non-Nicaraguan establishments alike, from bakeries to food stores and restaurants. The dessert has become so popular that locals have even reimagined the flavor in new forms, like Fatgirl Hedonist’s pumpkin pie tres leches and Salty Donut’s white chocolate tres leches doughnut.
While many credit Nicaraguans for the dessert, others claim it as their own: Mexico, Cuba, Venezuela, Puerto Rico (the list goes on). The origin stories and recipes vary by country; dig a little deeper and the history is even more elusive. To get to bottom of this, I consulted with a dozen Nicaraguans of varying backgrounds who migrated to the United States in the 1980s.
Many told me that did not eat the dessert until they arrived to Miami and credit a local Nicaraguan restaurant chain, Los Ranchos, for the introduction. Others vividly remember the dessert as far back as the 1940s, which coincides with the time that canned milk products became more widely available in Central America. This goes hand in hand with the idea that Nestlé, Borden, and similar companies invented the recipe and printed it on their can labels as a way to promote their products.
Searching through old cookbooks from Mexico and Nicaragua, there’s no evidence of the recipe prior to the 1970s. The closest examples are torta de leche or pastel de leche (“milk cake,” similar to hot milk cake), sopa borracha (“drunken soup,” or rum cake), almibar (syrup), and the French baba au rhum.
Finally, a small group spoke of the society events where the dessert existed exclusively. Known in the capital city of Managua, tres leches was only served in private clubs and wealthy households, where it was referred to as delicias suecas (“Swedish delights”). But there’s no relation to Sweden or its delights. Other sources on the topic even point to Sinaloa, Oaxaca, and Albania, where there’s a version of the dessert known as trilece.
The most likely theory is that tres leches—at least its inspiration—originated in England around the Middle Ages. Considering its form, tres leches can be categorized as a trifle cake, which originated in England around the Middle Ages. Soaking a cake was and is still an easy way to repurpose old or stale cake. Nothing is wasted, everything is used. This makes sense as Nicaragua was colonized by both Spain (1522-1821) on the west coast and England (1633-1860) on the east coast.
Tres leches cake is literally ‘ three milk cake’. It’s a Mexican cuisine and uses condensed milk, heavy cream and whole milk). This cake is widely famous in Latin America and many food bloggers and enthusiasts already knew about this cake years ago (I came across it nearly 8–9 years ago).
Five Two Stoneware Mixing Bowls
Between 1979 and 1990, the violence of the Nicaraguan Revolution, coupled with an earthquake, forever changed both Nicaragua and Miami. Tens of thousands of Nicaraguans fled the country to Miami, a growing metropolis where Latin Americans thrived, forged in large part by the Cuban community. Much of the population settled in the suburb communities of Sweetwater and Kendall.
Today, Sweetwater is known as Little Managua, which is also where the famous Los Ranchos opened in a small stripmall in 1981. Since then, they’ve expanded to three additional locations. Tres leches cake was added to the menu and thus reintroduced to the Nicaraguan community as well as formally introduced to Miamians.
In exile, there’s nothing better than the food that reminds you of home. Since then, Miami’s Latin American community has grown even more diverse, bringing with it new desserts, many that also include evaporated and condensed milks.
Nevertheless, there’s still something singularly magical about tres leches.
On our new weekly podcast, two friends separated by the Atlantic take questions and compare notes on everything from charcuterie trends to scone etiquette.
How to Make Tres Leches Cake
FAQ
How did tres leches cake get its name?
What does my tres leches mean?
What is the difference between tres leches and cuatro leches?
What is a tres leches cake?
Meaning “three milks,” tres leches is a fluffy, airy sponge cake soaked in a rich, sweet blend of sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, and whole milk, then topped with whipped cream or meringue and candied or syrupy fruit. It’s a mainstay at bakeries, grocery stores, and birthday celebrations in most Central American countries.
What are some examples of tres leches?
The English trifle and bread pudding, Italian tiramisu, Portuguese golden soup, and Spanish milk cakes are all examples of long-standing recipes that inundate dry or stale cake with custard, milk, wine, or cream. In Mexico, the clear precursor to tres leches comes from regional Oaxacan and Sinaloan desserts.
What is the difference between tres leches and Trileçe?
The Albanian variation “trileçe” usually has a caramel topping while the tres leches cake has a cream and fruit topping. Tres Leches Cake consists of a standard cake base that is soaked in three kinds of milk (“tres leches” in Spanish). The milks used in this combination are evaporated milk, condensed milk, and whole milk.
Why was tres leches cake invented?
European culinary exchanges in Central America became a business — with sugar cane production and cattle farms increasing exponentially. These three factors — English milk-soaked cakes, sugar crops, and a cattle industry — set the stage for tres leches cake to be born in Nicaragua.